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documentation:booster:start [2022/03/27 11:21] gregkdocumentation:booster:start [2022/05/17 09:38] gregk
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 While there are community provided videos published in the above link, No Limit Dronez has not confirmed the accuracy or correctness of this content. The generic details below were created by No Limit Dronez, and should be followed. Failing to follow these instructions will invalidate your product warranty. While there are community provided videos published in the above link, No Limit Dronez has not confirmed the accuracy or correctness of this content. The generic details below were created by No Limit Dronez, and should be followed. Failing to follow these instructions will invalidate your product warranty.
 +
 +===== Before you start =====
 +All of our boards are tested at the factory as part of the production process by automated machines. In addition, we do a quick power up test on the bench in our distribution center, to confirm a signal light comes on for both 2.4 and 5.8 before dispatch. 
 +
 +We have had multiple users who have cooked their boards, through bad installation. We list below the most common mistakes.
 +
 +  - **Heat**: Leaving a board connected to power for long periods before mounting using an appropriate exoxy compound or using a cooling fan can cause damage to the board. If powering up without permanent mounting, make it a brief momentary operation for the test you are performing, or if you want to do a longer test you MUST use a fan.
 +  - **Voltage**: If the input voltage to a board is too high, this may damage the board. Test supply voltages before connecting to a booster board.
 +  - **Bad Antenna Connection**: If the output antenna line is poorly connected, this can cause the output signal to be reflected. Make sure the antenna connection is secured before use.
 +  - **CE board with FCC aircraft**: The CE boards should be used in CE locations, and FCC boards in FCC locations. If you have previously installed a FCC software mod, this MUST be removed before powering on your aircraft with the booster boards. Do NOT use an FCC board with the modded GO4 app.
 +  - **Skipping a voltage regulator**: Some of the community supplied videos do not use step up or step down boards. While the voltage may be stable on the ground, you cannot guarantee the supply voltage while in the air will be the same. We provide step up and step down boards for a reason. They provide stable dependable power to your booster board. But more importantly, if there is a problem with power, they provide protection to the booster boards.
 +
 +Each of these errors can be detected upon examination. Warranty claims due to the above installation errors will be rejected.
  
 ===== WARNING ===== ===== WARNING =====
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   - Heat-resistant two-part epoxy glue for mounting the booster and power modules securely.   - Heat-resistant two-part epoxy glue for mounting the booster and power modules securely.
   - Heatshrink to insulate your relay, step-up, and step-down boards.   - Heatshrink to insulate your relay, step-up, and step-down boards.
-  - A basic multimeter is recommended but not mandatory.+  - A basic multimeter.
  
  
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   - Connect a Red wire to pin 8 on the relay.   - Connect a Red wire to pin 8 on the relay.
   - Connect a Red wire to pin 6 on the relay.   - Connect a Red wire to pin 6 on the relay.
 +
 +The diagram below summaries all of the above to make this child's play. The first version shows a StepUp board.
 +<figure stepupblock>
 +{{:documentation:booster:stepup.png?400|}}
 +<caption>**Relay Wiring Diagram (Step Up)**</caption>
 +</figure>
 +
 +And this version is identical, but shows a StepDown board in use.
 +<figure stepupblock>
 + {{:documentation:booster:stepdown.png?400|}}
 +<caption>**Relay Wiring Diagram (Step Down)**</caption>
 +</figure>
  
  
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 As part of pre-assembly, we have four wires ready to be connected. As part of pre-assembly, we have four wires ready to be connected.
  
-Control power: The two wires from pin 1 and 8 on the relay need to connect to a power source that will only be active when the remote is powered up, such as a cooling fan. Check community supplied aircraft specific documentation for details of a suitable power source. If no details are available for your equipment, you can test using a multimeter to assist in locating an appropriate supply. This connection is only used to power the relay coil, drawing minimal current to power the ready.+Control power: The two wires from pin 1 and 8 on the relay need to connect to a power source that will only be active when the remote is powered up, such as a cooling fan. Check community supplied aircraft specific documentation for details of a suitable power source. If no details are available for your equipment, you can test using a multimeter to assist in locating an appropriate supply. This connection is only used to power the relay coil, drawing minimal 21.1 milliamps when your remote is turned on to power the relay. This is insignificant, and will not have any noticeable impact on battery life.
  
 Main power: The other two available red and black power wires need to connect to the main battery power supply. The intent here is to get as close as possible to the raw power coming from the battery cells. Main power: The other two available red and black power wires need to connect to the main battery power supply. The intent here is to get as close as possible to the raw power coming from the battery cells.
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   * Connect the free end of the red wire from pin 6 on the relay to the positive terminal from your battery.   * Connect the free end of the red wire from pin 6 on the relay to the positive terminal from your battery.
  
 +**IMPORTANT NOTE**: We have heard that some installations have connected the relay coil to a power source that is active even when the remote control is off. Make sure you use a multimeter to check the voltage going to the power modules to confirm zero volts when the remote control is turned off.
  
  
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 And what about the FCC mod? Why can't you leave that turned on? There are a few reasons. Firstly, a future update to your firmware might not work with our mod. We do not want you to have an aircraft stuck on an incompatible firmware version unable to fly because you have un-matched boosters. But even if you did not have that issue, there is one other factor. During the boot-up sequence, the FCC mod is enabled by one of our mod scripts. We have not tested the impact of any comms that might happen before that script is executed on the booster board performance. For the sake of simplicity, we recommend using the boards to match your geo country in all circumstances. And what about the FCC mod? Why can't you leave that turned on? There are a few reasons. Firstly, a future update to your firmware might not work with our mod. We do not want you to have an aircraft stuck on an incompatible firmware version unable to fly because you have un-matched boosters. But even if you did not have that issue, there is one other factor. During the boot-up sequence, the FCC mod is enabled by one of our mod scripts. We have not tested the impact of any comms that might happen before that script is executed on the booster board performance. For the sake of simplicity, we recommend using the boards to match your geo country in all circumstances.
 +
 +Why is my remote control battery draining so fast? The aircraft batteries are intelligent, and once you turn them off, there is no power drain caused by custom mods like the booster boards. The remote control is different. The relay output contacts get power directly from the battery, and the relay coil is powered from a switched source elsewhere in the remote. The relay coil power should only be active after turning on the remote control. To prevent mistakes, use a multimeter to check the voltage going to the power modules is zero volts when the remote control is not turned on.